May 2008

Night life is non existent in Tai'an. Being able to go to a pub or a club was a big deal for us.

Club New York
We went on a Friday Night. The place was pumping. They had a fabulous house band which consisted of 6 members - 4 male and 2 female. Everyone in the band was Chinese and they spoke/sang perfect English. Each band member could sing or play an instrument. I stuck with Corona's as my choice of drink whilst Barbara enjoyed a Cosmopolitan or 3. We were awarded as "Mug Club Members" and issued a German Style Beer Mug.

The King's Head English Pub
A fine English pub in deepest China that has a selection of European beers, pool and live English Premier Football. That was the reason for me going! It is a great design and responsive staff contribute to the atmosphere.
I stuck to a Corona with lime whilst Barbara tried a Martini. Apparently it was good, olive and all.
They had live music. The solo artist spoke/sang perfect English. He played all the norm pub songs. We sang along and had a good night.
The Bar tenders name was Wei and he was very accommodating with drinks and service. He also played the violin with the solo artist in particular songs and was also very good.

Shopping Malls are easy to come by.

Bargaining does not work as well in Qingdao as the prices are already lower than in other areas of China and the local people close the deal swiftly rather than talk around endlessly. Although, I did have a couple of wins!

Mykal Shopping Centre, Parkson Department store, Jusco Shopping Mall and Carrefour are just like any shopping malls. We had the most luck in buying clothes at Carrefour. I bought a pair of jeans and a skort for Y178 ($29 AUD)

We stumbled across Longshan Underground Shopping Centre in here I managed to find 2 pairs of shorts and a pair of 3/4 pants after some bartering we settled on Y130 ($21 AUD)

I arrived in China with 1 book, 'Mao's last dancer', and a couple of magazines. In all the countries I have visited buying English books have never been an issue. Well this is China. I struggled to read 'Mao's last dancer' at home. I arrived in China and it all fell into place and he was actually from Qingdao. Having finished this book I had nothing to read. Barbara had lent me some books to read. But I had been in and out of bookstores in Tai'an, Qufu and Qingdao and found nothing. I found a book store, Xinhua Bookstore, in Qingdao which on the facade was written English books. I couldn't believe it. There was a whole floor of English Books. I was like a kid in a lolly shop. I ended up buying 4 books for Y300 ($50 AUD). I had finished 2 before getting back to Tai'an.

Walmart is something we don't have in Australia so I was keen to visit. It really is nothing special. A bit of a pick n pay.

Metro
I saw an ad in a magazine for Metro advertising a wide selection of Western Products including beer and wine, cheese, coffee, pasta, chocolate and much, much more! I said to Barbara that I have to go. There are some things that you just can't buy in China that you take for granted at home. Like I've got a dozen bottles of wine in my storage, I can eat licorice all day every day, I don't mind cheese with my wine and I like rice crackers. All of which you can not buy in China.

So off we headed to Metro. It was like a big cash and carry. It had clothes, shoes, gym gear, furniture, food etc. You name it, and it was there. We found dental floss another life necessity not available in China. We were then told that you have to pay for it before you can continue shopping. Now we needed to find out where. Well Barbara almost caused an international incident. Apparently you can't just shop at Metro, you need to be a member. Barbara sweet talked the Manager who gave us a special membership number because we were only in town for the week!

Wandering aimlessly down the aisles and something caught my eye. Now I don't just like, I LOVE LICORICE. At home I seriously ate a 250g bag everyday. It's an addiction. I picked up this plastic container and as I was hugging it I said to Barbara, "Is this Licorice?" She asked me to give her a look. I told her that there was another container I was not letting go of the container I had in my hand. I hugged that container all the way to the checkout. Don't worry about a nice bottle of wine, cheese or rice crackers. I had a container of licorice.

The container is like something you would find on the counter in say a 7-11. It was 1.5 kg containing 150 pieces. I told myself that I would ration it. Didn't work too well. Some people who know my licorice habit well be astonished that it did last 5 days. It was expensive at more than $20 for the container but boy did it make me happy!

I was so excited I sent my Mother a text to tell her that I had found licorice when I was in the taxi on the way back to the hotel. Everyone who I have spoken to knows, I found licorice. I wonder how much longer I will have to wait for my next find! I might be lucky and someone might send me a bag.

Shopping in Qingdao was a little easier than Tai'an. They actually have western sizes. I went into one shop and I was looking at tops. The Chinese assistant very kindly told me that the size 7 would fit me. I politely told her I hadn't been a size 7 for more than 25 years. Anyway I found the top in size 11. I had a singlet on underneath a jacket. I took the jacket off and tried the top on over the top of my singlet. Well I almost caused another international incident. Firstly I have white skin and dark blond hair this always causes people to stare. But just having a singlet on brought in the crowds. I think I became more embarrassed then them in the end. At home I wouldn't think twice about wearing a singlet top shopping. But then I'm probably a normal chest size but not to the Chinese. Ah well, I guess I made their day!

On the first morning we had until 12 to check out of the dodgy hotel. Barbara and I set about walking from hotel to hotel until we found one that we liked. Based on the experience the night before we asked to see the room. Before we left I had done some research on the internet and had a list with me. With the street signs in Chinese, a limited map we were having some challenges trying to find anything that was on the list.

The first and second hotels were really no better than where we were staying. We entered a third hotel or what we believed to be a hotel only to find it was a bath house as they were trying to give us slippers and gowns. It is all part of the fun!

We stumbled across a tout who had various brochures. One of the hotel brochures was on the list I had researched. We decided to take a look. We checked out the rooms. The view was great, everything seemed OK. However when I did my research there was one particular hotel that looked charming. I was keen to find it. Barbara was also interested. The tout was upset that we didn't take the hotel. Obviously, because she's not getting paid!

After some frustration, buying a map, asking locals with limited to no English we found the Qingdao Beach Castle Hotel. We asked to see the room. It was clean, stunning and quiet. We both agreed that we would like to take this hotel but needed to find out the price.

When we asked the price we were told Y288/n ($48AUD). This was the most expensive of all the hotels we had seen but we were happy with this and told them we would take two rooms. Given my prior experience in Asian countries I asked how much for 7 nights and we bargained them down to Y258/n ($43AUD). We paid our bill and headed back to the old hotel to get our luggage.

When we returned we had two Chinese friends of Barbara's with us - Kwin and Lupy. The hotel reception were now talking with Kwin. The story was they were so excited about 2 rooms for 7 nights that they forgot that it was May Day Weekend during this period and now wanted to charge us Y588/n ($98AUD).

Well I wasn't having this. We were quoted and we paid up front. They offered to reduce the price, throw in breakfast and anything else we wanted. In the end their last offer was an additional Y800. This would increase the cost to $62AUD/n. I still wasn't having it. So in the end I agreed that we would give them an extra Y400 each for their error. I gave them nowhere to go. They had to agree or we were going and they would have to refund the Y3612 ($602AUD). So we ended up staying at this stunning beach side villa for $367 AUD for the week. Quite a bargain really.

Qingdao Beach Castle Hotel has a stunning seaside environment and is an evocative reminder of Qingdao's colonial past, this beach side villa was a German prison in the early 1900's. Remodeled and revamped, it now boasts great facilities and a relaxing atmosphere.

Converted from a German residential villa, Qingdao Beach Castle Hotel is a symbol of modern Qingdao.

The architecture is more than 100 years old with pure German style ambiance. Beach Castle Hotel, used to be a German castle and covers 12 acres. It is a yard style villa with sea views.

The prison has been turned into a museum. We visited the museum which I found a little disturbing. It is not something that I will write about but my pictures may tell the story.

Throw out the diet. Qingdao is a cauldron of good food. The waterfront area is brimming with restaurants.

The choice of seafood restaurants borders on the ridiculous. Rows of small eateries near the seafront display their wares in tanks and buckets. For me I find it quite off putting when you see them kill it on the pavement. They expect you to eat something that they have killed where people walk and spit!

Wine is hard to find in China and in Chinese restaurants. Tsingtao Beer is the locals preferred choice. It has been brewed in Qingdao since 1903 when the Germans founded the brewery. In a restaurant expect to pay Y5 (83c) for a bottle.

La Villa Restaurant Francois & Bar
This great, chilled bar/restaurant features a Tapas Bar on the left and fine traditional French food on the right. The environment was pleasant and the staff friendly.

DA Qing Hua Dumplings
Everybody loves dumplings and this is the best place to get your fix. Boiled and fried dumplings are available with a wide range of fillings, and there is also an extensive menu of other dishes to supplement them.

Sorrento pizza
The service is good.

Cassani
This is where I had my birthday dinner. New and authentic, this Italian owned cafe allows you to indulge like you are in Italy. Downstairs is a dining area or where you may drop in for a superb coffee. They also offer a wide range of delicious Gelato. Upstairs is a more formal dining area or where you might pull up a bar stool, soak up the atmosphere, drop by for a cocktail or glass of fine wine.

We met the owner whose name now escapes me, but he is very hospitable and a true Italian. Mrs Cassani was also dining in the restaurant and her son proudly introduced us to her. The owner gave us a Galiano on the house. This reminded me that it tastes like licorice and maybe I will have to take up drinking Galiano due to the non existent supply of licorice.

Selene's Chocolate Bar
This place is incredible. You can have a chocolate drinking experience were they only use imported chocolate from Belgium or you can have a coffee brewed fresh or mousse, cakes and biscuits.
Barbara is a chocoholic. We went here twice. On my first visit I had a hot marshmallow milk chocolate drink and a chocolate. The second visit I couldn't go passed the hot marshmallow milk chocolate drink but this time I had chocolate waffles. I have to say whilst the waffles was good, it really did need some ice cream to go with it.

Hotel Restaurant
We ate a few times at the hotel restaurant. The food was quite good but a little more on the expensive side. They had potato pancakes which I can really only describe as potato scallops without the batter. They were delicious. They also had a chicken dish which is like chicken nuggets with bones, chili and peanuts. I loved it and could easily eat it every day. I also enjoyed the cabbage dish they had. It was fried with chili. A little on the hot side but I like my food hot.

Beyond the beaches, most sights are squeezed into the old town. We put on our comfy shoes and sauntered around the old town, losing ourselves down side streets and gawking at the astonishing architecture.

May 4th Square
Qingdao played a key role in igniting the May 4th Movement - a national patriotic campaign following the failure of Chinese diplomacy in taking back Qingdao from Germany at the Paris Peace Conference in 1919.
The sight is a large public square located between the new municipal government building and Fushan Bay and is marked by the huge flaming sculpture called Wind of May.
This square offers beautiful sea views and has become the symbol of modern China.

Xiaoyushan Park
Nowhere could the landscape of Qingdao be better enjoyed. You get a bird's eye view of Qingdao's best sites from Xiaoyushan's 3 story pavilion.

Little Qingdao
This tiny freckle of land boasts as its main attraction a German Lighthouse built in 1900. It is especially beautiful at night. It's actually a peninsula. It is well situated in front of the old city, with an excellent view of the pier. Whilst here you can take a boat ride Y160 ($26 AUD) for up to 3 people. The boat takes you into the bay near the Navy Museum to Zhanqiao pier and into Qingdao Bay. It was a hoot. It was a bit chilly so it was just enough time to be out on the boat.

Zhanqiao Pier
Built in 1891 as a wharf, the pier extends 440 m into Qingdao Bay and ends with a two story pavilion added in the 1930's. The Huilan Pavilion is the unmistakable symbol visible on all Qingdao beer products and is one of the symbols of Qingdao.

Beaches
Qingdao boasts 7 bathing beaches. The beaches are pleasant enough but don't go expecting Australian Beaches. The most popular are number 1, 2 and 3. Chinese beach culture is low key and quite tentative.

Beach No 1 is the largest at 580m. The sand is coarse grained, engulfed in seaweed and bordered by concrete beach huts and bizarre statues of dolphins. This beach is also a spectacular scene, enhanced by the picturesque backdrop of Lu Xun Park. The changing rooms are built underground, their roofs forming part of the seaside Promenade. Swimmers can splash with confidence thanks to a submerged wall of shark-proof netting.

Beach No 2 is cleaner, quieter and more sheltered than No 1 Beach. It is under hot pursuit for ceremony photography for weddings.

Beach No 3 is another beach featuring clear water and sand. Located in the old Colonial part of town, this beach offers some of the best panoramic views of Qingdao.

Beach No 6 was close to our hotel and neighbors Zhanqiao Pier.

Sightseeing TV Tower
348 M tall, located on Taiping Hill, surrounded by Zhongshan Park, Qingdao Botanical Gardens and the Zhanshan Temple. There is an express lift up to the fabulous views of the city. You can reach the tower via cable car. It is ranked the No. 1 iron tower in China. The rotating watch tower is a great place to get a panoramic view of Qingdao.

Navy Museum
Sitting right on the seafront the former naval base is home to former US and Soviet vessels, a Chinese Huafeng missile boat, various small craft, vehicles, tanks and aircraft. It houses the largest impressive collection of navy-related collections in China, including uniforms, weapons, fighter planes, a couple of warships along with a submarines as well as missiles. The museum showcases the history and development of the Chinese People's Navy.

Governor's Building
Constructed during 1903 - 1906, under the design of a German Architect, this stern, Gothic structure was the seat of government during the German Occupation. It's now the office for Qingdao's People's Congress & CPPCC Qingdao Committee. It has been protected under Historic Relics since 1996.

Granite Mansion
Built in 1903 by a German Official as a hunting and fishing villa, this mini castle adds a touch of Bavaria to Qingdao. It combines Roman and Gothic architectural styles.

Lu Xun Park
Completed in 1929, this park is dedicated to the memory of Lu Xun, one of the major Chinese writers of the 20th Century. He was a co-founder of the China League of Left-Wing Writers. The statue of Lu Xun faces the front gate. It's located on the shore of Huiquan Bay and offers beautiful views of the sea.

Tsingstao Brewery
Established in the late 1890's, by the beer loving German's, Tsingtao is recognized as China's premier beer. A section of the Original brewery building is now a beer museum. Tsingtao Brewery makes the finest brew in China with the mineral waters of nearby Lao Shan. It is interesting to read how beer can be a major player in the creation of a harmonious society!

Qingdao International Beer City
The 35 hectare Beer City Falls into two parts of trade and entertainment, where many brands of beer and snacks are offered, along with drinking contests and amusement shows. Built in 1993 it is set to become the permanent site for the Qingdao Beer Festival.

Tsingtao Beer street
Bars and restaurants line this 800 metre long street of European Style, in front of the Tsingtao Brewery.

Eight Passes Area
The area is named after the Great Wall's eight strategic passes and is famous for its gardens and crisscrossing roads. As well as for its sanatoriums and exclusive guest houses. Each street is lined with a different tree or flower, including maple, myrtle, peach, snow pine and crab apple. This is a lovely area to stroll.

Tianhou Palace
This temple was built in the Ming Dynasty (1467 AD). It has a stage in the front and bell and drum towers on both sides. Also home to Qingdao's Folk Customs Museum. It is a small temple. The main hall contains a colorful statue of Tianhou (heaven Queen), flanked by two figures and a pair of fearsome guardians. Other halls include the dragon King Hall and a shrine to the God of Wealth. As one of the oldest constructions existing in Qingdao it has been protected as a historical relic since 1982.

Lutheran Church
This castle style church was designed by Curt Rothkegel and constructed from 1908 - 1910. The interior is simple apart from some carvings on on the pillar cornices. Most noteworthy is the bell tower. You can climb up to inspect the mechanism of the clock. It was constructed for religious services for the Germans. It is also called the German Auditorium and seats 1,000.

Zhanshan Temple
Built in the early 1930's, this 20,000 sq m temple features 5 court yards and a seven story pagoda. Also houses stunning displays of Buddhist sculptures & scriptures. The dramatic sandalwood Buddhas are covered in gold foil. On Buddha's birthday, thousands of worshipers gather here to attend the temple's fair. Unfortunately you are not allowed to take photos of the Buddha's and you can't really buy any souvenirs showing the Buddha's.

Guest House
Formerly a German Governor General's residence and a replica of a German Palace. It was also used as a guest house for military and political VIPs. One of the finest European style villas in China. The building was under construction from 1903 - 1906, it is said to cost 2,450,000 teals of silver. When Kaiser Wilhelm II got the bill, he immediately recalled the extravagant governor and sacked him. In 1957 Chairman Mao stayed here with his wife and children on holidays.

Huiquan Square
Built in 1992, this 13 hectare square features a large music fountain and a 36.5 steel and glass structure that symbolizes 365 days in a year.

Music Square
A Seaside square with an elegant environment. It is the biggest musical square in China and features sculptures of famous composers. It is dedicated to musical activities and performances. There is a fixed giant piano and the statue of Nie'er, who composed China's National Anthem. In the centre there is a 20 metre high statue named "Sail of Music". The platform overlooks the sea, and is designed as an open music venue.

Baihua Park
Situated in Qingdao Hill, this 8.25 hectare park is home to 20 statues of famous Qingdao scholars.

St Michael's Catholic Church
Built in the 1930's, by the Germans, the twin spire church is up a steep hill. It has an imposing edifice with a cross on each spire. The church was badly damaged during the cultural revolution and the crosses were torn off but it has since been restored. It has two bell towers, one on each side of the church. There is also statue of St Teresa. I am astonished that you have to pay to enter the church. God's got enough money! The church was closed for renovations.

Underwater World
Adjacent to Lu Xun Park and No 1 Bathing Beach, Underwater world covers an area of 7,000 m2 and accommodates a water body of 4,000 tonnes. In my opinion it's not worth the money of Y150 ($25)

Qingdao Botanical Garden
Built in 1976 the gardens are located between Zhongshan Park and Zhanshan Temple. More than a thousand species of plants are raised in an area of 690,000 m2 on which amusement functions for exploration and body building add to its fascination.

Zhongshan Park
When Japan invaded Qingdao for the first time in 1915 the started an experimental plant farm. They began to plant several kinds of oriental cherries. The Chinese government regained Qingdao in 1922 and the oriental cherries entered the peak flowering period. In spring, hundreds of oriental cherries unexpectedly opened. The plant farm was renamed Zhongshan Park. So every April cherry flowers attract visitors to Zhongshan Park. The park now also has magnolias, the flower of the Chinese flowering crab apple and tulips to name a few.